Power of the Silhouette in Bespoke Tailoring
What do you think of when you hear the word silhouette? Possibly an outline, a shadow, or a dark figure on a light background. A silhouette in its most basic form is able to convey its subject without the aid of intricate details. This is as true in the tailoring world as it is all over in different visual contexts. Most, if not all, people from all corners of the world can undoubtedly identify the silhouette of a man, a woman, a bird, or even a shoe at great length by being able to deduce the function of said shoe from the silhouette alone. This is the power of the silhouette.
A silhouette in its most basic form is able to convey its subject without the aid of intricate details
When it comes to tailoring the ideal suit, the details of the suit–from the patterns to the colors–complement the form and the shape it drapes over you, accentuating your features. In other words, the details help define the silhouette and the silhouette as a whole is what the world first notices from a man in a suit. The tailored suit harbors no prejudice towards any body type: thin, large, tall, short, round, or rectangular. When done correctly, the silhouette positively highlights the man’s figure; it conveys his shape and his message beyond the appearance of the finer details of the suit. As the general silhouette visually depicts its subject, so does the suit silhouette depict its man.
As the general silhouette visually depicts its subject, so does the suit silhouette depict its man.
So how do you construct this silhouette? There are a multitude of varying factors when it comes to putting together the ideal silhouette. Make note that the word ideal is used instead of perfect. For although some may come upon a perfect silhouette, this entails a connotation of singularity. However, there may be a leniency towards the wearer to exercise free will when it comes to the ultimate appearance of the silhouette. The wearer can have a structured silhouette, or a softer, less structured form, depending on their style or where they are from. In other cases, the decision may solely rest on the day’s functions. Perfection in fashion is fundamentally subjective.
The construction of any adornment begins with the basic factors that make up the suit: the suit jacket, the suit trouser and the dress shirt. The necktie and the pocket square arrive later to the party.
The Suit Jacket
Jacket Shoulder
Jacket Length
Waist Button
Gorge Line and Lapel Width
Jacket Sleeve
These are the foundations of the suit jacket, and although forming the silhouette begins here, it isn’t limited to these five elements. For example, the jacket shoulder helps define the gorge and lapel width, which subsequently influences the width of the necktie. Conversely, the necktie can influence the overall silhouette of the man. Additionally, the jacket length, with the overall stature of either the tall or short man in mind, might help decide on the fabric of the suit and the patterns involved. At the forefront of their thoughts, the tailor might envision the number of buttons and where to place the focal waist button. Yet, in the background they may be pondering the number of pockets and their placements altogether. Although the finer details are only the finer parts of the suit, they hold significant influence in achieving the ideal form of the overall silhouette.
At the forefront of their thoughts, the tailor might envision the number of buttons and where to place the focal waist button, yet in the background they may be pondering on the number of pockets and their placements altogether.
Do not be alarmed by the many parts of a suit jacket and trousers that are in play, nor be daunted by the interminable nature of the variables in bringing balance to the garment in question. The keyword to note here is proportion.
When you next visit your tailor, pay attention to when they bring out their first and foremost tool of the trade: the measuring tape. Watch as the professional glides in action, calling out the measurements to their assistant. Depending on the couturier, they may take over twenty measurements, from shoulder to feet. They then take these measurements and transfer them to a pattern according to their house cut.
Every tailoring house has their signature cut or house cut that dictates the style of that particular tailor. Essentially, it is a set of guidelines that help transform the measurements into proportions that reflect the tailor’s style. At length, the house cut influences the finer proportions of the suit–from the collar, length and lapel to beyond.
The way the pattern is drafted dictates the silhouette.
At Sein Shwe Bespoke, the house cut is a soft shoulder, ample space around the chest and back for mobility, and a slightly tucked waist for the jacket. This is followed by relatively high-waisted trousers with slightly tapered bottoms, creating a flattering silhouette.
It is important to note that this is only the house cut. Depending on the function and the wearer’s request, our tailors engage in conversation and make adjustments to achieve the ideal silhouette–one that meets the customer's criteria while adhering to the rules of fashion. Our tailors ensure that no one leaves the shop with an ill-fitted suit.
At Sein Shwe Bespoke, the house cut is a soft shoulder, ample space around the chest and back for mobility and a slightly tucked waist for the jacket; followed by relatively high-waisted pants with slightly tapered bottoms for a flattering silhouette.
Now that you have an idea on the silhouette and the suit that creates it, we hope you’ve developed a newfound interest for the accoutrements of luxury. It is as much an art as any other visual form of medium.
You could cede all responsibility of dressing yourself up to the tailor, but that would only take away from the joy of understanding your own figure and learning how to best adorn yourself in any setting. This is a source of satisfaction that many shun and let go to waste. Fashion is fleeting, but your form, shape, figure and your silhouette are not.
Studying and discovering your body leads you into what Alan Flusser calls Permanent Fashion. It is not that you stick to the same colors, or the same designs, or the same patterns; rather, it is a reward of always looking your finest, brought about by understanding your own proportions. When you look in the mirror and recognize what works for you, you are already halfway through the door in always knowing how to dress yourself.
When you look in the mirror and understand what works for you, you are already halfway through the door in always knowing how to dress yourself.
This doesn’t imply that you knock on each tailor’s door and dictate what they should construct. Instead, it opens the door to further conversation. Tailoring as a one way street–coming from either side–is an unsatisfactory endeavor that falls short of reaching its intended pinnacle.
When one opens up to the sartorial world of fashion, they begin to understand that there is a relationship to be had between the wearer and the tailor. It is a combined journey to construct the most ideal suit for every need. Few things are as luxurious and as haute couture as elevating your fashion by understanding yourself and working in tandem with your tailor.
